Post by Thom on Mar 23, 2006 14:57:53 GMT -7
I often hear from like-minded beekeepers who, like me, do not medicate their bees. Oddly, we all seem to market our products as “Natural” rather than “Organic.” Though many of us have organic honey we are not USDA certified. It is difficult to find what the regulations are that will tell you if you to do to have an organic hive product and process. It is difficult to have an organic apiary. This is why most organic honey for sale in the US comes from isolated islands off the coast of India and Australia, where more primitive beekeeping practices take place.
The website for Quality Assurance International lists the criterion for organic certification. www.beekeeping.com/articles/us/organic_standards.htm
Here are some (not all) of steps to take to certify your apiary:
You may obtain bees from packages or swarms, splits from colonies with brood frames only (without food) by use of a queen excluder or from existing organic colonies. Your colonies must have a two-mile flight line that does not cross from any pollution source, which could cause the honey to become contaminated by, or as a result of, returning foraging bees (e.g. synthetic-chemical sprayed agriculture, industrial centers, urban centers, etc.).
Beekeepers need to have organic feed available for bees in the event of pending starvation.
Colonies infected with American Foulbrood must be destroyed. Beekeepers are allowed to use the antibiotic oxytetracycline (terramycin) as a preventive measure against the spread of American Foulbrood into colonies. Antibiotic applications may be made only after the end of honey production, and must be terminated 30 days prior to the start of new organic honey production. Menthol is allowed for control of Tracheal Mites (Acarapis Woodi).
Folic acid, formic acid, and lactic acid are allowed for the control of Varroa Mites with the following restrictions. Folic acid may be used after the end of the season's honey production. Its use must be discontinued 30 days before the addition of honey supers. The need for folic acid must be documented and approval obtained from QAI prior to its use. Lactic acid may be used after the end of the season's honey production. Its use must be discontinued 30 days before the addition of honey supers. The need for lactic acid must be documented and approval obtained from QAI prior to its use.
The following practices are prohibited: Use of sugar syrup, or oil (shortening) based extender patties for administering antibiotics for American Foulbrood control. Use of synthetically compounded materials for health care.
Hives & Apiary Yard Locations: Hives (if paintable) should be painted with non-toxic paint and in a suitable color for the climatic conditions. Comb foundations are to be made of pure beeswax, and frames are to be made from wood. Plastic frames, foundations or combs are prohibited. Each individual hive must have a numbered I.D. code that relates to the bottom board, brood chamber boxes, queen excluder (if used), honey supers, and covers).
Harvesting: Bee escapes with a natural smoke agitant, bee brush and transfer boxes, forced-air bee blower. The use of "fume boards" with non-compliant or unregistered repellents of any kind during harvesting is prohibited. Examples of these prohibited products include butyric anhydride (Bee Go and Honey Robber) or benzaldehyde.
Acceptable moth controls in storage include: Burning sulfur, refrigeration or freezing.
Any honey heated to over 110 degrees F must not be labeled "raw" honey because of heat denaturing of enzymes.
So is it worth it to go organic? I tried contacting two organic certifying agencies, and am still waiting (3 weeks now) for a response. The best local resource for all things organic is Oregon Tilth. Though that is one organization that has not replied to my request for information, they are worth a look if you are on the Internet. Their web address is www.tilth.org/
The website for Quality Assurance International lists the criterion for organic certification. www.beekeeping.com/articles/us/organic_standards.htm
Here are some (not all) of steps to take to certify your apiary:
You may obtain bees from packages or swarms, splits from colonies with brood frames only (without food) by use of a queen excluder or from existing organic colonies. Your colonies must have a two-mile flight line that does not cross from any pollution source, which could cause the honey to become contaminated by, or as a result of, returning foraging bees (e.g. synthetic-chemical sprayed agriculture, industrial centers, urban centers, etc.).
Beekeepers need to have organic feed available for bees in the event of pending starvation.
Colonies infected with American Foulbrood must be destroyed. Beekeepers are allowed to use the antibiotic oxytetracycline (terramycin) as a preventive measure against the spread of American Foulbrood into colonies. Antibiotic applications may be made only after the end of honey production, and must be terminated 30 days prior to the start of new organic honey production. Menthol is allowed for control of Tracheal Mites (Acarapis Woodi).
Folic acid, formic acid, and lactic acid are allowed for the control of Varroa Mites with the following restrictions. Folic acid may be used after the end of the season's honey production. Its use must be discontinued 30 days before the addition of honey supers. The need for folic acid must be documented and approval obtained from QAI prior to its use. Lactic acid may be used after the end of the season's honey production. Its use must be discontinued 30 days before the addition of honey supers. The need for lactic acid must be documented and approval obtained from QAI prior to its use.
The following practices are prohibited: Use of sugar syrup, or oil (shortening) based extender patties for administering antibiotics for American Foulbrood control. Use of synthetically compounded materials for health care.
Hives & Apiary Yard Locations: Hives (if paintable) should be painted with non-toxic paint and in a suitable color for the climatic conditions. Comb foundations are to be made of pure beeswax, and frames are to be made from wood. Plastic frames, foundations or combs are prohibited. Each individual hive must have a numbered I.D. code that relates to the bottom board, brood chamber boxes, queen excluder (if used), honey supers, and covers).
Harvesting: Bee escapes with a natural smoke agitant, bee brush and transfer boxes, forced-air bee blower. The use of "fume boards" with non-compliant or unregistered repellents of any kind during harvesting is prohibited. Examples of these prohibited products include butyric anhydride (Bee Go and Honey Robber) or benzaldehyde.
Acceptable moth controls in storage include: Burning sulfur, refrigeration or freezing.
Any honey heated to over 110 degrees F must not be labeled "raw" honey because of heat denaturing of enzymes.
So is it worth it to go organic? I tried contacting two organic certifying agencies, and am still waiting (3 weeks now) for a response. The best local resource for all things organic is Oregon Tilth. Though that is one organization that has not replied to my request for information, they are worth a look if you are on the Internet. Their web address is www.tilth.org/